Maui Travel Tip: What to Know About Haleakala

One of the most interesting places to visit on Maui is Haleakala, the 10,023 ft. volcano which makes up the east side of the island.  There are two facts that surprise many visitors:  it is not a dormant volcano, it just doesn’t erupt very often, only every 200-500 years.  (The last one was 200-250 years ago.) And the moonlike depression in the center is not a true crater; it’s simply a product of erosion.  But everyone refers to it as a crater because that’s so much easier to say!

The moon or Maui?
Astronauts actually did lunar landing training here.

Haleakala is not a quick side trip to be checked out on a whim.   The drive one way takes 2-3 hours depending where you start, and the last hour is spent on 25 miles of twisting road and switchbacks.  It’s not a difficult drive, as the road is wide, paved, and well-marked.  And the views are spectacular.  But you have to take your time, and watch for cyclists.  Anyone prone to car sickness might want to give it a second thought.

Here we go!

One of the straighter sections

And you need to know what to expect.  Here are few tips before you head up to the summit:

Bring your own food and drink – It’s at least an hour drive back down the mountain to get to any restaurants or other services. 

Prepare for high wind – I suggest women bring a scarf they can tie around their chin, especially if they have long hair that will poke them in the eye or get stuck in their mouth.  A knit cap works if it fits securely.  Even a hat with a chin strap can get pulled off easily in the strong gusts.

Wishing I had a scarf right now!

Wear sunscreen – The sun’s rays are especially damaging in the thin atmosphere.

Bring layers to keep warm, and raingear or a water repellant jacket – It can be hot & sunny at sea level but wet & misty at the summit.  Even if it’s a clear day, the temperatures are much lower and the wind makes it feel much colder.

Bring binoculars – You will have panoramic views of the entire island, and can even see all the way to the Big Island on a clear day.

Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa in the distance

Watch the time if heading out on a trail into the crater - Distances are deceiving because of the lack of perspective, and a landmark may be much farther away than it appears.  Also remember that it will take twice as long to climb back up as it does to go down, and it will feel more strenuous due to the elevation.   Once the sun goes below the rim to cast shadows, temperatures drop very quickly, so don’t head out too late in the day.  (This one I can vouch for from experience!)

The trails down there are much further away than they look!

If you want a truly memorable experience, watch the sunrise from the summit.  This takes an especially hardy traveler, as you have get up insanely early while on vacation, and withstand temperatures that can dip below freezing.  But it’s worth one of the most beautiful and unique sunrises you will ever see.  And to add to the adventure, ride back down on a bike with one of the tour companies!

Sunrise circa 1988. I don't expect it's changed much.

A van full of thrill-seekers parked at the summit.

A nice stop on the way back to sea level is Grandma’s Coffee House, a family-owned business that has been roasting coffee on the premises for four generations.  It’s small and simple, but the food is good and reasonably priced, including  large sandwiches, homemade desserts, banana bread, and of course, excellent coffee.

Lots of Grandma's pies in that case

For helping planning a fun and memorable trip to Maui, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.

The Fairmont Kea Lani - A Little Slice of Heaven on Maui

Kea Lani means “white heaven,” and it doesn’t take long to see how perfect this name is for one of my favorite resorts on Maui.  Whenever I walk into the Fairmont Kea Lani’s beautiful lobby, the Mediterranean style architecture and expansive, lush landscaping makes me feel like I’ve just entered paradise.

 

Aaahh!

Here are some of the other reasons I, and many of my clients, love the Kea Lani:

It’s the best suite value on the island.  All the accommodations are800 sq ft one bedroom suites, and the starting price point is comparable to standard rooms at other hotels.  Other properties have a limited number of suites so they charge premium rates.  The entry foyer and bathroom are also very spacious, so there's plenty of space to store bags, snorkel gear, etc.

One Bedroom Suite (king or two doubles plus sofabed)

Spacious lanai with views of Molokini and Kahoolawai

It’s in a quiet but convenient location. Wailea is a serene, country club setting, with much less traffic than Kaanapali or Lahaina, but there are still many restaurants and shops just a few minutes away.  A stroll along the oceanfront pathway leads to other resorts, offering lots of dining options in walking distance.  In Kihei, just 10 min away, is a shopping center with a full size grocery store and Hilo Hattie's. 

 

Oceanfront lawn

It’s elegant but laid back.  Everyone can feel at home at the Kea Lani.  Service and accommodations are five star, but nobody is pretentious.

It works for everyone.  There are 3 swimming areas to accommodate all ages: an adults only pool, a two level family pool with water slide and swim-up bar, and a wading pool for little ones.  There are plenty of public spaces, so families can feel comfortable letting their kids play on the lawn and in the pool, while couples can find a quiet spot to relax (including a hidden hot tub).

 

Family pool, water slide, swim-up bar & grill

Adult pool

Lots of lawn with ocean views,
 plenty of chairs for everyone

It has a great beach. The beautiful crescent beach is public, like all beaches in Hawaii, but since there is no public parking nearby, it gets little use by non-hotel guests.  There is good snorkeling right off-shore, and it’s common to see turtles.

 

Polo Beach

Complimentary outrigger canoe experience

Oh, those villas! If you want more space and some of the conveniences of home, like a private plunge pool, full kitchen and washer and dryer, then book a 2 or 3 bedroom villa.  There is a large lawn in front, with plenty of space for kids to run around, and the beach is a just a few steps beyond.  They are perfect for larger families, multi-generational groups, or couples traveling together.

 

Oceanview villas

Villa living room and kitchen

Villa plunge pool

(You can read a testimonial from one of my clients in the the April issue of Virtuoso Traveler.)

Here’s how you can get even more value at the Fairmont Kea Lani:

Register for a Fairmont President’s Club number.  There is no charge, and you get extra benefits including free high speed internet (an upgrade to business premium at the Kea Lani), discounts in the spa and store, complimentary use of bikes, and in-room delivery of Reebok shoes and apparel, yoga mats, and stretch bands.

Let me book your stay so you receive Virtuoso amenities.  These include daily breakfast for two, an upgrade on arrival (based on availability), and a welcome gift valued at $100.  Plus my fantastic contacts at the resort will personally take care of your reservation, and ensure you have a great suite.

Buffet breakfast

For help planning your Hawaii vacation, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.

Another day in heaven ends

New Orleans' Hidden Luxury Hotel

I recently visited New Orleans for the first time, and I had some trepidation because of its rowdy reputation.  On top of that, my friends and I were staying in a hotel right on Bourbon St, yikes!

But I have to say I was pleasantly surprised.  When I walked into the Royal Sonesta Resort, it was like entering an oasis.  The lobby is impressive with large floral arrangements, interesting artwork, and traditional French Quarter architectural features.  On site there is a coffee shop, a jazz bar, a well-known restaurant, an oyster bar, and a pretty outdoor terrace with fountain.  An outdoor pool with a bar and spa cabanas is sequestered in the center of the hotel, a nice amenity year-round.

There were four of us celebrating a friend’s birthday, so we booked a split level suite, which turned out to be the perfect set up.  It had a spacious living room on the first level, with both a double and single sofa bed, and a spiral staircase led upstairs to a bedroom with a queen bed and bathroom.   There are only eight of these suites, some of which are located poolside, so they can book up early.

Royal Sonesta Split Level Suite - Living Room

Royal Sonesta Split Level Suite - Bedroom

Our suite opened to a shared patio area with covered tables, and despite having lively Bourbon St just on the other side of the wall, it was amazingly quiet.   Service was very good, everything we asked for was delivered promptly:  extra towels, extra blow dryer, even middle of the night pizza.  The hotel also has an exclusive Club Level on the 7th floor which serves breakfast, cocktails, and hors d'oeuvres.

Patio outside our suite

The location was excellent, with Canal St. only 2 blocks away, and Jackson Square and the waterfront an easy 10 minute walk.

For those who want to be close, but not right on, Bourbon St, Canal Street is lined with  many hotel options, including the regal Ritz Carlton New Orleans, which I also toured.

Like many hotels in the French Quarter, the hotel is quite large, taking up almost a whole block with its 527 rooms and suites.  The first three 3 floors used to be a department store, and a beautiful fountain outside the spa on the ground floor is a leftover from that era.
 

Fountain outside the spa

There are several public spaces, including a former “smoking lounge" with sofas and game tables,  a pretty outdoor courtyard with wrought iron furniture, and gaslight lamps, and the Davenport Lounge, named in honor of headliner Jeremy Davenport who has performed there for many years.  The dining room opens to this lounge, so guests can have a supper club experience.

Former smoking lounge off the lobby

The Davenport Lounge

I was first shown the 2800 sq. ft. Ritz Carlton suite, which had traditional décor with muted wall colors, ornate drapery, and wainscoting.   It was recently renovated, and a pool table was added.   It has hardwood and tile flooring, a full kitchen, living room with fireplace, and a large outdoor terrace with panoramic views overlooking the French Quarter, all the way to the river.

The Ritz Carlton Suite

Canal St view from the private terrace

Standard rooms and suites also have traditional décor with richly colored bedding. All suites have sofa beds, so they can accommodate a family of four if the children are young, and rollaways are also available.  French doors separate the bedroom and living room giving parents their privacy.

Standard room at the Ritz Carlton New Orleans 

One Bedroom Suite

If families want connecting rooms, there are 38 available in various configurations.  Some rooms have connecting doors, but many are set up as a “lock off suite” - separate rooms that share a foyer with a master door that can be locked off from the hallway.  There is even one suite that connects to 2 king rooms to create a 3 bedroom suite.

So I've talked about two very large hotels, neither of which are hard to miss.  So where is this "hidden hotel?" 

Well, it's inside the Ritz Carlton! Their Club Level is not just a dedicated floor, it is a “hotel within a hotel."  Club guests have to check in at the main lobby, but from that point on they never have to enter the main hotel as they have their own elevator and private drive. It's completely exclusive, offering guests an intimate and personalized boutique hotel experience combined with the amenities of a full size hotel.

The décor is distinctly different, with more neutral colors and wood floors, to give the feel of being in a Southern home. (In order to prevent scratches, rollaways are not allowed in these rooms, but they have air mattresses which are fun for kids. They fell like they are camping!) 

Club room at the Ritz Carlton New Orleans

The Club Lounge was very spacious, with multiple rooms and plenty of seating.  In addition to the usual food spread, there was a 24 hour “grab and go” station which is great for those always hungry kids.

The Club Lounge

Grab N Go Station in the Club Lounge

So if you want to experience Ritz Carlton service and luxury, but don’t want the "big hotel" feeling, then a Club room is the perfect solution!

While Bourbon Street does not exactly cater to children, the rest of the city offers family friendly activities, and the concierge can provide a “Top 10 List.”  The hotel provides POLO Kits (Protect Our Little Ones) which include outlet covers, infant/toddler bath amenities, and (if needed) a forehead thermometer strip, and parents can also request  cribs, pack & plays, infant bath tubs, humidifiers, a diaper pail,  microwave and mini-refrigerator.  

And of course, my clients receive exclusive Ritz Carlton STARS amenities, which include daily breakfast, a welcome gift, and upgrade on arrival if available.

If you’d like more information about planning a trip to New Orleans, or cruising from there, just send me a note at suzette@family-treks.com.

Cruise ship in port

Be Suspicious of Quick Answers to Your Travel Questions

I really need to quit reading the Q&A in the newspaper's travel section, because I always seem to get riled up.  Basically, readers write in with questions, such as what to do and see in a particular location, or what hotel or cruise is "the best."  And they get a brief answer, usually with very specific recommendations.

If a client called and asked me any of these questions, we would spend a minimum of 15 minutes in conversation before I would consider giving them an answer.

No cookie cutter answers
for my clients!

In fact, I’d be asking them a whole lot of questions right back, such as:

• Can you tell me more about who is going on this trip?
• Why are you going, what is your vision, are you celebrating anything?
• How old are your kids, what are their interests & activities?
• What are your favorite hotels?  
• What do you like to do on vacation?
• Have you ever cruised before, traveled outside the US, etc?
• What are your hotel “must haves” and what do you like to avoid?
• Do you want to be in the middle of the action or do you want a quiet retreat?

And something that is really important to families: do you need guaranteed connecting rooms or a specific bedding arrangement?

The answers I receive usually create more questions: “So you’re taking along the grandparents.  Do they have any mobility issues, or they ok with stairs and long walking distances?”

Spiral staircase to get to breakfast

Paris elevator - not for claustrophobes!

You can buy a guidebook and or easily find on the internet a list of top attractions of any destination.  But is a book or a website going to say “Since you are a gourmet cook, why don’t you check out this market, it’s the best one in the city.  Or better yet, how about a Farm to Fork tour?” 

Farmer's market in Provence

Or

“Since your teens are active and enjoy being outdoors, this is a great place to rent bikes to explore the area.”

Or

“This hotel has a zero-entry pool so it’s much easier to monitor your toddler, they can sit and splash in shallow water.  Then you don’t have to stand in the pool holding them the whole time.”  

Turks & Caicos waterpark

So you see there is no one right answer when it comes to travel.  Even the most expensive, top rated, most talked about hotel in the world is not “the best” hotel for everyone.  And the “must do/must see” list for a retired couple traveling alone is different from that of a family with young children.  
As for selecting a cruise, don't even get me started! When you thing about the variables for just one destination:  the cruise line, the ships within that line, cabin types, ports visited, onboard activities, etc. it staggers the mind. 

 

Small ship

Big ship

Or something in-between

My job is to make sure I give the best answer for each and every client.  And that requires a lot of communication between us.  Many people email or call to ask about rates for a specific hotel, often because their friends recommended it.  Personal recommendations are great, I use them all the time.  But is that really the best fit for you, of ALL the hotels available? 

After all, think about your friends and family members.  Do you all drive the same model car?  Like the same food?  Have the same hobbies?  I have over 300 Facebook friends, but there are only a handful that have the same travel style as I do.

 

Do you like cool, modern elegance...

Or warm, rustic luxury?

One time I had just returned from the destination featured in the Q&A section.  And while the “expert” recommended a couple things I agree with, there were several things I think he/she missed, and I would have narrowed the list even further if I knew the ages of the travelers.  They also made a dining recommendation which baffled me, as the town had many other much better restaurants.

So don’t believe everything you read!  

For help with planning the perfect vacation just for you, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.

Five Factors to Consider When Selecting an Alaska Cruisetour

Alaska cruise brochures can be the most confusing to understand, even for an experienced travel advisor.  And the cruisetour section can be especially intimidating - so many choices, and so many tours that look similar.  

Of course, the easiest way to sort it all out is to ask your trusted travel advisor for guidance, as they ask the right questions to find the best fit for you. But if you'd like to figure it out on your own, or want to do a little research before reaching out to a professional, here are some tips to help you get started.

1) Do you want to do the cruise or the tour first?

I personally prefer a northbound cruise, because I enjoy the increasing anticipation of getting closer and closer to Alaska.  Also, the ports of embarkation, Vancouver and Seattle, offer a lot to do and see.  Since most travelers need to arrive at least one day prior to embarkation, they can use that time to explore one of the cities.

 

Vancouver

However, the land tour requires a lot of moving around, so it’s more tiring than the cruise portion.  For that reason, many travelers opt to do the tour first, then spend the end of their trip relaxing.   But if you feel that you need some R&R before going on an adventurous land tour, then cruising first would be the better choice.

  

So, you see, it’s really a matter of personal preference.

2) How much time do you have?

The shortest cruisetour is 10 days (7 day cruise + 3 day land tour), but you generally need at least 11 days to allow for travel to the start of the cruise or the tour.  The less time you have, the fewer options available.  Most tours that stay within Alaska run a maximum of 13-14 days,  and Yukon tours go up to 16 days.

Market in Anchorage

3) Where do you stop and for how many nights?

While it may seem there are a baffling number of tours available, on close inspection you'll notice that they generally visit the same areas.  The main differences will be the order of the itinerary, and the number of nights in each location (typically 1-3).  I find my clients fall into one of these groups:  they either want to hit the maximum number of places in the least amount of time, or they want to visit fewer places and have more free time for activities. 

Downtown Talkeetna

Think about what you want to see and do, and note in which town those activities are available.  Then mentally walk yourself through the itinerary.  Are you OK with how often you will pack and unpack, how many early mornings you will have, how often you’ll be on a bus, how much free time you will have?  Will you have time for any "must do" excursions?

Some cruise lines offer “Direct to Denali” service which means they take you from the cruise ship to Denali National Park the same day.  It’s a long day, but it allows you to spend more time at Denali if that’s important to you.

Alaska Railroad passing through Talkeetna

4) What Denali Park tour is included?

All accommodations are located outside the park boundaries.  The only way to travel deep into the park, and have a chance to see Mt. McKinley (if weather allows), is via a National Park Service bus.  Almost all cruisetour itineraries include one of the narrated bus tours, which vary in how far they travel into the park (15 to 53 miles, 4-8 hrs roundtrip).   The further you go, the more spectacular the scenery and the more opportunity to see wildlife. However, note that none of the narrated tours go as far as Eielson Visitor Center.

 

Park service bus

Denali Park Road

5) Would you prefer traveling on your own?

A cruisetour is the most seamless way to visit interior Alaska before or after a cruise.  If you want someone else to do all the planning, driving, and luggage handling, then that is the best choice.  But if you want to be more independent and even get off the beaten path a bit, you might consider doing a land tour on your own.  

Sled dog pups at the Iditarod Race Headquarters

While there is plenty of public transportation in the Denali Park area, having your own car gives more flexibility in how you spend your time.   Though the distances in Alaska are long and services are limited, driving and navigating is quite easy.  You can start right at the cruise port, or you can travel to Anchorage and pick up a car there.

 

Driving to Denali from Anchorage

In my opinion, one of the biggest benefits of traveling independently is having time in your schedule to take the park service shuttle into Denali instead of a tour bus.  If you are up for the long day (11-12 hrs), then you can travel the entire length of the park road, over 80 miles, and enjoy all the amazing scenery this beautiful, remote wilderness area has to offer. It is truly the trip of a lifetime.

Brown bear on Denali Park Road

I’ve traveled all over the state of Alaska, so whether you travel by ship, bus, train, or car, I can custom design an itinerary just for you, and provide insider tips for a fun and memorable vacation.  For more information on how to get started on your dream trip to Alaska, contact me at suzette@family-treks.com.