If you follow me on Facebook or Twitter, you know that I
just returned from a 2 week trip to Alaska. Glacier Bay was the starting point for our adventure, my
kids’ first trip to the 49th state.
Most people visit Glacier Bay by cruise ship, but I wanted to spend
several days there, to have more time to enjoy the unique beauty of southeast
Alaska. Few visitors actually stay
overnight, so this would give my kids an authentic experience in a small
Alaskan town.
The “Gateway to Glacier National Park” is the tiny town of
Gustavus, home to no more than 500 year-round residents.
The airport in Gustavus is an
interesting sight, as the tiny terminal stays empty all day until the sole Alaska Airline flight arrives (the TSA agents are flown in to meet the jets by a
small local air service.) But that
doesn’t mean it’s not busy, small private planes and charters constantly fly in
and out. We were told that just a few
weeks earlier, the airport was shut down because a bear ambled onto the runway,
and it had to be shoo’ed away by a fire truck!
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Arriving in Gustavus |
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The quiet Alaska Airlines terminal |
Gustavus is the kind of town where the lone gas station has
old fashioned pumps that you only see in museums these days, and everyone knows
to watch out for moose #1 who’s really ornery.
There are no rental cars, so lodges transport their guests wherever they
need to go. We became quite familiar
with one main intersection in the middle of town: one road led to the ferry, one to the
airport, one to Bartlett Cove, and the last to our lodge. Nothing is more than 10 miles away.
Our wonderful home for 3 nights was the beautiful, and
thoroughly Alaskan, Bear Track Inn.
Meals and transportation are included. and we ate like kings.
A chef and his assistant worked diligently in the kitchen adjacent to
the dining room each evening, serving up 4 gourmet choices each
evening.
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Surf & turf night! |
Breakfast was cooked to order every day, including amazing muffins made with wild blueberries, and the best pancakes my kids ever tasted. On the rare chance you were
at the lodge for lunch, you got gourmet sandwiches, and if lucky, some leftover
chowder from the previous evening. The owner, Janie, who opened the lodge in 1997, told me about some of the amazing experiences she can arrange for my clients, to create the trip of a lifetime.
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The cozy lodge |
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Relaxing in the evening (yes, evening) |
What to do in Glacier Bay?
Enjoy the scenery – by kayak, boat, foot, or air. A must do, of course, is a full day glacier
tour out of Bartlett Cove. On the small
boats, you travel close to the shoreline so you can see the scenery up close,
and also get a good view of the glacial silt and ice bergs. If there’s something interesting to see, such
as a calving glacier, a bird rookery or wildlife, they have the luxury of
stopping for a short while so everyone can get a good view.
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Entering Glacier Bay |
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A brown bear on shore! |
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The scenery never ends |
Then if you want more time on the water, I’d suggest a kayak
tour. If you are experienced you can
rent kayaks yourself, but you can’t get very far in a few hours. I’d suggest going with a tour operator who
will take you by boat to more scenic location for kayaking, where you might
even see whales. For the more adventurous, there are overnight trips kayaking & camping next to glaciers. You can also go whale
watching, or go on a fishing charter.
And then there’s hiking, either in the gorgeous rainforest along the
waterfront, or up into the hills for panoramic views.
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Paddling through a kelp field in Bartlett Cove |
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Boats ready for fishing & whale watching |
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Rainforest walk |
We left via a slightly different mode of
transportation. I originally planned to
take the ferry to Juneau, but found it did not run on our departure day
(oops). Instead we booked a flight with a
local air service, which was actually cheaper than Alaska Airlines. Our family was the only passenger in the
6-seater plane, so hubby got to fly shotgun, while the rest of us took pictures.
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Our plane has arrived |
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A happy husband! |
It was a clear day with no turbulence, so our
pilot took us right over the mountains, which was thrilling. Now THAT is the way to travel in Alaska!
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On the way to Juneau |
Glacial lake
Alaska is one of my favorite destinations. I’ve traveled all over the state, including above the Arctic Circle, and I've even driven all the way from California, returning via the Inside Passage ferry! So if you'd like to plan your own adventure in Alaska, just contact me at suzette@family-treks.com