>

September 3, 2015

What Not to Do When Visiting the Amalfi Coast

On our trip to Italy this summer, we did not have enough time in our schedule to spend a few nights on the Amalfi Coast, but we did have time for a day trip from Rome.  It's really easy logistically, a little more than one hour train ride.  But the easy logistics end once you get to the Naples train station.

If you do not hire a car and driver/guide to take care of you from the moment you arrive to the moment you depart, you will likely end up regretting it.  This is one place where you simply cannot "wing it."

A few days before our arrival, construction shut down several roads around the train station, causing gridlock in all directions.  As a result, our driver/guide, Gianluca, had to allow an extra hour of driving time on each end of our visit.  (There went two hours out of our day.  First lesson learned, plan for delays.)  But thanks to his insider knowledge of the streets around the train station, he expertly got us out of the city, though at times I did need to shut my eyes.  

The scenery only gets better from here.
Once out of town, we got to relax and enjoy the views of Vesuvius and the coastline as we headed to Pompeii, where he dropped us off to meet our guide.  I have always heard that  the size of the ruins surprises tourists, and yet I was still surprised.  And very happy to have a guide who expertly led us to specific areas to explain daily life in the ancient city in a way that kept my teens engaged. 

Pompeii is so big, it doesn't appear crowded even
during peak season.  Except if following the
people wearing audio headsets.

Block after block of city streets, and few signs
explaining what you see.
Our guide's visual aids helped bring the ruins to life.
After our tour, Gianluca was waiting to whisk us off to Sorrento, his home town.  Since we were behind schedule due to the chaos in Naples and we would soon have hangry kids, he called ahead to a restaurant so that we would be seated and served immediately.  Within 45 min we had ordered, eaten, received our complimentary limoncello shots (another good reason not to drive), and were back out the door.   For anyone who has eaten in a restaurant in Italy, you know what an amazing feat that is!

How could we not order pizza??
Yes four glasses, drinking age limits are loose.
Kids weren't interested so mom & dad got two each!
The next few hours were spent shopping and sightseeing in Sorrento and Positano. There was absolutely no parking, but Gianluca has connections.  He called ahead to have them hold us a spot right in the center of town then we hopped out, had time to stroll, shop, and get limone granitas.
Beautiful ceramics in Sorrento

One of the few flat areas in Positano
After many stairs, we reached the Positano beach

Afterwards we hopped back in the car and enjoyed the stunning scenery while Gianluca dealt with the jam-packed streets, tour buses backing up to negotiate hairpin turns, and motorbikes and pedestrians who seemed to appear out of nowhere.  (I glanced back to see my son grinning ear to ear with his phone held up to the window recording it all.)
Gianluca didn't slow down!

Until we got here
We arrived at the train station with time to spare, bid a fond farewell to Gianluca, and were back in Rome just in time for dinner.

So no matter how experienced a traveler you are, here is my advice if you are considering exploring the Amalfi Coast on your own:  Don't do it!  Whether you arrive by train, plane, or cruise ship, it pays to hire a local expert so you can have a fun and stress-free experience.   And whether you have 4 hours or 4 days, I can work with my local experts to plan a great itinerary maximizing your time in this beautiful area.

Aaaah-malfi, I can't wait to see you again.

1 comment:

Jen Pack said...

Your trip sounds amazing!! I've always wanted to go to Florence, it's like my dream vacation. I'm hoping we can go for an anniversary or something. Your pictures make it look so much fun. Thanks for sharing!